Festival of Lights

This weekend we had the pleasure of showing off Berlin to our dear friends, Maya and Marc, who came over from Brussels, Belgium.  Their visit coincided with the Berlin Festival of Lights so we bundled up and walked through downtown Berlin where over seventy buildings and monuments were lit up in different colored lights.  We made our way through Potsdamer Platz which had numerous sites including a giant sculpted head where everyday German faces were morphing into one another.  Then it was on to the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate to see the light show there.  It was a crisp, clear night and perfect for viewing the festival, but thirst and cold got the better of us and we made for a neighborhood bar to catch up in more comfort.

Oktoberfest

While we did not get down to Munich for the big Oktoberfest, Karen and I still wanted to get a taste of the festivities that occur all around Germany (and the world for that matter).  So we traveled to the center of Berlin (where we witnessed a breathtaking sunset) and made our way down to a cluster of large tents staked out along the Spree.  Our first stop by the river was Spree Wies'n where the "Neighborhood Boys" were playing traditional German songs (not really polkas) and leading the packed house in raucous call and response chants.  We did not linger long here as it was standing room only and it is hard to hold a sausage and a liter of beer all night long.  Just down the road, near the main train station we found an Oktoberfest at Dream Beach that was just getting under way.  The friendly bouncer waved our cover charges and seated us in the reserved area alongside some German men that informed us that today was "International Suit-Up Day". Karen and I then joined the growing crowd for mighty mugs of Paulaner beers, pretzels and a tasty roast chicken as we sang along with a medley of campy European pop songs from the live band.  We danced alongside lots of men dressed in lederhosen and women sporting the traditional dirndl outfits.  It was a great night and a wonderful way to celebrate Oktoberfest.

Kurbisfest

Today we officially welcomed Autumn into our lives.  After a brisk run in Wilde Park, Karen and I rode our bikes over to our neighborhood pumpkinfest, Kurbis in German.  As we strolled the blocks of vendors and amusement rides our tummies cried out for some kurbis so we shared a hot bowl of pumpkin soup and some hot, spiced wine called Gluhwein.  Karen noticed that all the folks around us were eating something called Kaiserschmarrn, so we got in line to sample the large fluffy chopped pancake bits topped with applesauce.  On our way out we selected a cute little pumpkin that may get some facial surgery, along with a few colorful gourds to decorate our table.  But we couldn't leave without grabbing a Feuer-Kringle, which is a Bohemian pastry roasted on a large spit which looks like a cylindrical cinnamon roll.  We enjoyed all the warm goodies so much that Karen came home and warmed the house with some homemade soup and cookies to last us the week.

Piping hot Feuer-Kringle

Our pumpkin safely belted to the back of Kyle's bike

U-N-I-T-Y

Today is Tag der Deutschen Einheit (also known as German Unity Day) and while the official celebration this year is in Bonn, the former capital of Western Germany, we still managed to take part in the fun to be had in Berlin.  Karen and I biked over to the Brandenburg Gate at the edge of the Tiergarten where we meet a few thousand people strolling down June 17th Street eating food and enjoying the carnival rides as a large stage showcased a men's choir churning out popular tunes from across the ages.  We munched on quarkballchen which turned out to be like tasty little doughnut holes with cheese baked into the batter.  As we walked, Karen and I did not see a single German flag or display of civil pride and we learned that this 20 year old government holiday is not a big time for celebration in the eyes of most Germans.  So we followed suit and left to grab a Hefeweizen at the nearby beer garden in the park before heading home.

Slippers in Style

We have been warned of the cold Berlin winters and so Karen and I set off to get some slippers to pad around in our lovely apartment.  After referencing our Taschen Berlin book we found a small shop that is known for their pantoffeln.  (On a linguistic side note, I thought is was interesting that: pantoffelheld is the German word for a henpecked husband.)  Junemann's Pantoffel Eck has been crafting slippers for decades and the business has been passed down through four generations.  So we trekked through trendy Prenzlauer Berg in the unusually warm afternoon and found ourselves faced with a wall of handmade footwear.  After a few guesses of our European shoe sizes we settled on the felt bottom, open back, classic plaid design.  I've never been so excited to buy some slippers, and we left giddy with our purchase and anxious to break them in that night.  After two days of constant use, I am happy to report that they will be with me at all times as I try to put my best foot forward here in Berlin.

Ice cream culture

Ice cream in Berlin is big.

When I arrived in June I marveled at the amount of ice cream consumed by Germans, young and old, at all times of the day and night, rain or shine. From a simple cone to whopping sundaes topped with cascading fresh whipped cream (Schlag in German), ice cream was everywhere and my resistance was weak.

Not all German ice cream is created equal, however. And after sampling many shops, Kyle and I have chosen a favorite, recommended by the food blog Berlin on a Platter. If I could eat ice cream from Vanille & Marille everyday, I would (only distance and waistlines stop me). And a single dip costs a mere euro. The flavors are sublime: buttermilk honey, spiced plum, strawberry marscapone, to name a few of our recent favorites. Their fruit flavors are some of the most saturated and full-bodied I have tasted--not too sweet and so intensely fruity. Featured below: wild blueberry sorbet with hazelnut crunch ice cream. Yum!

Hello from the balcony

 I moved to Berlin in early June to begin a yearlong fellowship here. Kyle was to join me three months later and it was my job to find us a suitable apartment. After some preliminary online searching and many long skype calls with Kyle, we realized that our criteria were actually quite simple: We wanted a balcony. In New York, we had often lusted after the neglected balconies on neighboring buildings and thought, one day…

After weeks of searching I found it. A young German couple was looking for someone to sublet their apartment while they were in Spain on a post-doc. When I saw the pictures I thought for sure it was some kind of scam (the New Yorker in me!)—it seemed too perfect. High ceilings with ornate molding typical of the turn of the century German architecture, minimal but comfortable furnishings, a big kitchen, and, the crowing feature, a wide balcony filled with plants overlooking a quiet street.

We decided to name our blog after our balcony, the perfect frame for our European adventure. It represents to us a slower pace of life and a desire to enjoy simple things in beautiful settings, of which there is no shortage in Berlin. We’re excited to share our life here with our friends and family through this space. 

Kyle cycles in front of our apartment.